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Could it be possible that nintendo recently has updated the ds lites firmware on newer ds lites to stop flashme by turning off the ds during the flashing process?. So its impossible to flash the newer ds lites?. Is there any one that can confirm if this is true or not like maybe some one that recovered the ds lite with the recovery feature after there ds lite turned off on them wile flashing and tried to flash it again after recovering and being successful

[It's been recovered. See page 6. -- mod]
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fartz wrote:

Could it be possible that nintendo curently has updated the ds lites firmware on newer ds lites to stop flashme by turning off the ds?. so its imposible to flash the newer ds lites?

Nintendo can't flash your DS. It is possible to flash the DS Lite by shorting SL1.
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But y are ds lites sudenly turning off during flashme process and turning peoples ds lites into bricks .theres gotta be an explanation.
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Because SuperCard draws so much power perhaps?
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if tepples is right,
then people should READ ever instuction :P...
it says plug in a power suply to insure your ds doesn't lose its power ;)...

p.s.,
i some how think tepples is wrong,
because when opera comes out
it will have the 10mb ram extention,
and that will require power while in ds mode too...

so i just don't know :P
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Aw crap well any way i gotta risk it U_U. One more thing i got alhold of flashme_lite beta 1 but i cant find flashme_lite beta 2 any one have the file ive been searching for a wile but no luck. my real aim is gcmario128 if you wantto give it to me privatly or you could just post it if you want.

this flashing problem happening randomley makes no sense. Can any one tell us if this problem has been around ever sense day one????. My theroy is Nintendo has just started making ds lites with updated firmware that blocks flashme by turning off your ds durring the process of flashing and thats y all the sudden people are having this problem. or can some one prove me rong plz?
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I don't think it's a firmware thing, the firmware isn't active when you run homebrew (flashme) (It's no bios or os). It could be a hardware problem. So to confirm this, you could run any homebrew you want (or perhaps a ds game or pictochat) and shorten SL1. If it turns your DS off, theres a hardwareproblem (but it doesn't brick your DS, because your not writing to the firmware _unless_ it burns your fuse. In that case, the DS can be repaired be bypassing the fuse (and can be flashed doing that too)).
I have no lite, so i can't check this...

A firmware update couldn't do this. When the DS is hijacked by the passme, all control is given to the flashing program. The firmware no longer has control, and so can't do anything to turn off the power. However, the act of flashing, in combination with the brighter screen, compact flash card and memory expansion (in a super card or M3) may be too much power drain. This could be the cause of the poweroffs. Alternatively, people my be accidentally shorting something else, along with SL1, while trying to flash the DS.
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swimgod wrote:

if tepples is right,
then people should READ ever instuction :P...
it says plug in a power suply to insure your ds doesn't lose its power ;)...

Sometimes circuit breakers can kick in even when a machine is running off a power brick.

Quote:

p.s.,
i some how think tepples is wrong,
because when opera comes out
it will have the 10mb ram extention,
and that will require power while in ds mode too...

But not likely as much power as the SuperCard. Remember that the M3 can do everything that the SuperCard does, with even better GBA compatibility, while drawing less current.
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Well if its because of power consumtion then im gonna turn it to the lowest brightness setting when flash my ds lite . One more thing can i play wifi games like mario kart ds without bricking my ds lite? or dous flashme_lite not have the problem flashme v4 had? just making sure. oooo And i have Flashme_lite beta 1 ive looked all over the place for flashme_lite beta 2 but i cant find it can some one post it for download and if thats not possible just aim me on my aim link. Gcmario128 and send it plz
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yeah. when i heard the problem with people's Lite powering off while flashing, I wondered if it was a power issue, so I used my M3 to install flashme lite, and at a low brightness setting. worked without a hitch.

it was just an extra precaution. I still am not 100% convinced that it's a power issue...

chishm wrote:

Alternatively, people my be accidentally shorting something else, along with SL1, while trying to flash the DS.

This seems the most likely to me. Probably the screwdriver, or piece of foil, or whatever, is shorting something that shouldn't be shorted, causing it to shut down.

But if they aren't shorting SL1, the flashme installer doesn't write to the firmware because it's still waiting for you shorting the SL1, doesn't it? (So the DS Lite wouldn't be bricked because the firmware hasn't changed)
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Ilomoga wrote:

But if they aren't shorting SL1, the flashme installer doesn't write to the firmware because it's still waiting for you shorting the SL1, doesn't it? (So the DS Lite wouldn't be bricked because the firmware hasn't changed)

perhaps you short SL1 AND something different :-(

Yeah, I bet that's it. You short the half of SL1 that has power to some random other component, and it panics and shuts off. Anyone who's had this happen, what exactly did you use to short SL1? (With the original DS, a certain size screw fits in tightly, eliminating the need to hold anything (except the battery) in place, jiggle things, etc. Not sure if the hole on the Lite is the same size, but it's probably worth looking for such a screw.)

A power issue is also likely; the power circuit can't handle all the energy required to run the system, lights, whatever flash card, and writing to the firmware (I think some Flash ROM/EEPROM chips draw more power when writing) for very long. Could even be some sort of hardware flaw. IIRC writing to the firmware and turning the system off are both done via the SPI, so if that were to have some weird bug in it that randomly sent data to the wrong device, then this sort of thing could happen.

As far as software doing it, it could be possible; the firmware or BIOS might set some interrupts that FlashMe doesn't/can't disable. Could also be a bug in FlashMe.

Also, keep in mind that Nintendo could very well rewrite the firmware from within a game, just not the first 64K. Any code that doesn't reside in this protected area could be rewritten. I doubt they'd actually do this, since newer models protect almost everything, but you never know.

I did a quick (yet slow) search around these forums. I stumbled upon these images.

http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dslitesl15mi.jpg

http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dslitesl1more1lx.jpg

There's the SL1, theres a VR1, could it be possible to harm the DS by touching the VR1, causing it to power off?

HyperHacker wrote:

Also, keep in mind that Nintendo could very well rewrite the firmware from within a game, just not the first 64K. Any code that doesn't reside in this protected area could be rewritten. I doubt they'd actually do this, since newer models protect almost everything, but you never know.

Won't happen though. There are 3 crcs and 5 addresses that need to match up. It is likely that parts 1&2 are inside the 64K area. Since the addresses/crcs that need to be modified are in the first 128 bytes, Nintendo will not be changing the firmware at all. (That is unless nintendo provides an official SL1 shorting tool that works with both DS and DS lite. (An official tool would be designed so that the only thing that gets shorted is SL1.))

HyperHacker wrote:

Yeah, I bet that's it. You short the half of SL1 that has power to some random other component, and it panics and shuts off. Anyone who's had this happen, what exactly did you use to short SL1? (With the original DS, a certain size screw fits in tightly, eliminating the need to hold anything (except the battery) in place, jiggle things, etc. Not sure if the hole on the Lite is the same size, but it's probably worth looking for such a screw.)

Well, when I shorted this other thing, I was using something bigger than the bit of wire I normally use for flashing my older DS. I think that's why...it was big enough to hit SL1 and this other thing. I suspect it's something on the left side of the hole SL1 resides in but I'm not sure as it's fairly difficult to see in there.
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Nushio wrote:

I did a quick (yet slow) search around these forums. I stumbled upon these images.

http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dslitesl15mi.jpg

http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dslitesl1more1lx.jpg

There's the SL1, theres a VR1, could it be possible to harm the DS by touching the VR1, causing it to power off?

Hmm, SL1 seems to be one big blob. I don't see, what to shorten there... But if i recall correctly, that was an image of a prototype? Does any one have a good photo of the SL1 from a lite?

caitsith2 wrote:

There are 3 crcs and 5 addresses that need to match up. It is likely that parts 1&2 are inside the 64K area. Since the addresses/crcs that need to be modified are in the first 128 bytes, Nintendo will not be changing the firmware at all.

An n-bit CRC is O(n) to forge.
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juhees wrote:

Nushio wrote:

I did a quick (yet slow) search around these forums. I stumbled upon these images.

http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dslitesl15mi.jpg

http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dslitesl1more1lx.jpg

There's the SL1, theres a VR1, could it be possible to harm the DS by touching the VR1, causing it to power off?

Hmm, SL1 seems to be one big blob. I don't see, what to shorten there... But if i recall correctly, that was an image of a prototype? Does any one have a good photo of the SL1 from a lite?

Yes, it was a prototype, but was the best I could find in a short notice :P

It indeed looks like a blob, which seemed odd to me at the time, but I still gave out the links.

If someone can provide a picture of the DSLite motherboard, we could compare, and check whats on the left of the SL1, thats causing everthing to brick by powering off (apparently, randomly)

hey,
does anyone think its posible that they made it so if you lost sl1 shorting for a second,
it would turn its self off,
and not pause the app?...

or are you SURE you never lost shorting?...

just a guess :P
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If that's a prototype the blob could just be solder, to keep it shorted.
If they were prototyping and testing the firmware they wouldn't want to go through the whole take-off-the-battery-cover-and-wiggle-it procedure for every little change they made.

Hasn't Loopy done the same?

Someone (whoever took the pics) shorted SL1 with solder. It isn't actually like that on a normal DS lite.
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vb_master wrote:

Someone (whoever took the pics) shorted SL1 with solder. It isn't actually like that on a normal DS lite.

Yeah, from what I can tell SL1 looks rather like SL1 on the regular NDS. Well, from what I can see under the battery cover.
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What is that VR1 anyway? It looks like it's accessible from the battery compartment? I know there's two screen voltage adjustment dealies, but I only see one terminal there (aside from SL1).

swimgod wrote:

hey,
does anyone think its posible that they made it so if you lost sl1 shorting for a second,
it would turn its self off,
and not pause the app?...

That's easy to test (and I would do it, if I had a lite): just run a homebrew with a PassMe and a Supercard/M3 what ever and shorten SL1.
Why so much hardware? Because of the power needed (some people guessed that could be a problem).

Now you can check, what happens if you short it, does it turn off? Does it only turn of, if you loost the contact to SL1 for a secound? Does it happen all the time? Then try it with a DS game, if it doesn't happen, it could be a power problem. Or try to variing the screen brightness...
If you don't run flashme, you shouldn't brick your DS and can test this a few times until you find the problem, why the DS turns off.

any suggestions?

some additions:

without inserting any cartridge, this guy tries to short SL1 with a screwdriver and it turned off.

seems like aside from the power consumption theory, another possible scenerio is that a unproperly shorted SL1 results to a shutdown. meaning that if you turn on the DS Lite, short SL1 inconsistantly, it shuts off because of that.

a way to disprove it would be solder the joint beforehand (while the unit is off...of course), or if you dont want to solder, you have to be sure that you have secure the shorting before turning on the DS lite it self.

Or what is labeled "SL1" is a decoy.

Or if the state of SL1 changes while power is on, power turns off.
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tepples wrote:

Or what is labeled "SL1" is a decoy.

Or if the state of SL1 changes while power is on, power turns off.

Quote:

does anyone think its posible that they made it so if you lost sl1 shorting for a second,
it would turn its self off,
and not pause the app?...

i bet you to that guess :P.

but would nintendo make a decoy?,
are they turning evil?...
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decoy? unlikely, since there are still successful cases of flashing

Different batches perhaps?
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im going with tepples guess,
maybe nintendo is finnally trying to take control of piracy on the ds lite?...
maybe they planed all of this...

Code:

Taking down piracy.
step 1)release a new version of nintendo DS
step 2)leave the same vunarabilities as previeus version
step 3)plan a shortage of volume
step 4)make another batch, plant decoy parts
step 5)brick ds's that activate secret switch
step 6)make people afraid of flashing
step 7)steal candy from a little baby

Happy now,
happy now nintendo?
ARE YOU?!!
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Step 8: More people demand NoPass based products, which stick out from the DS minimally or not at all.
Step 9: NinjaDS (warning: Flash site) or Datel finally comes through with such a product.
Step 10: PROFIT!
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im thinking about a planned and joint effort with the chinese foums...

it will require volunteer and help from people more experienced with DS's hardware (tepple, im talking about you =D) to eliminate variables and stuff...

think it'll be worth it?

I'm not all that experienced with DS hardware. Most of what I post about the DS is either general information that applies to any GBA descendant or parroting what others have posted.
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IM gessing its just the crapy flashcards like M3 and gbmp that are causeing the problem becuase if you check here this guy seemed to have no problem when he flashed with the beta flashme_lite he also dident have it pluged in so so doubt thats the problem. http://www3.youtube.com/watch?v=nJeFHRnkExQ&search=flashme
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fartz wrote:

IM gessing its just the crapy flashcards like M3 and gbmp that are causeing the problem becuase if you check here this guy seemed to have no problem when he flashed with the beta flashme_lite he also dident have it pluged in so so doubt thats the problem. http://www3.youtube.com/watch?v=nJeFHRnkExQ&search=flashme

incase you didn't hear all the reasoning...
i think tepples said it could be diffrent batches :P...
part of nintendo's evil plot i say :P
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fartz wrote:

IM gessing its just the crapy flashcards like M3 and gbmp that are causeing the problem becuase if you check here this guy seemed to have no problem when he flashed with the beta flashme_lite he also dident have it pluged in so so doubt thats the problem. http://www3.youtube.com/watch?v=nJeFHRnkExQ&search=flashme

I took everything out of my DS Lite except a commercial game (as well as reducing the backlight to the lowest level) when flashing and still this happened. There shouldn't have been any unusual drawing of power.
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The 9th Sage:
Try shorting SL1 while not flashing, and wiggle around the tool to see if you can get it to switch off. If it does, it confirms that either there is something else being shorted that shouldn't, or the hardware is intollerant of SL1 being pulsed.
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tepples wrote:

I'm not all that experienced with DS hardware. Most of what I post about the DS is either general information that applies to any GBA descendant or parroting what others have posted.

Hey, that's how I learned most of what I know about DS. ;-)

chishm wrote:

The 9th Sage:
Try shorting SL1 while not flashing, and wiggle around the tool to see if you can get it to switch off. If it does, it confirms that either there is something else being shorted that shouldn't, or the hardware is intollerant of SL1 being pulsed.

Heh, I would try if I could get the battery cover off again. ^_^;;
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Turning off has nothing at all to do wiwth what is running on your DS at the time. I had read about this problem before I flashed my DS Lite so I took the cover off and on the boot menu with nothing in either the GBA or NDS slot and with my power plugged in I joined the SL1 connection, it shuts the power off. There is no actual damage to the unit caused by this as I can turn it straight back on but it seems to me that if I try to flash it I will brick it. Which makes homebrew very annoying to run as having to do the annoying passme2 + sc procedure everytime is dull.

Does it turn off when breaking the join or instantly? Can you turn it on while it is joined?
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pandapanda wrote:

Turning off has nothing at all to do wiwth what is running on your DS at the time. I had read about this problem before I flashed my DS Lite so I took the cover off and on the boot menu with nothing in either the GBA or NDS slot and with my power plugged in I joined the SL1 connection, it shuts the power off. There is no actual damage to the unit caused by this as I can turn it straight back on but it seems to me that if I try to flash it I will brick it. Which makes homebrew very annoying to run as having to do the annoying passme2 + sc procedure everytime is dull.

You should be able to just continue installing FlashMe with it if you do start flashing and it shuts off. FWNITRO I think probably has this capability as well, though I'd not recommend it yet for the Lite until it either detects a DS Lite somehow or there is a DS Lite specific build (for toggling the backlight).
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Nice job, pandapanda!

Is there a particular position to put the metal object in SL1 that will cause the shutdown?

I'm thinking Nintendo has their own magical flashing tool (or maybe just a screwdriver? :P ) that does this without tripping over the little trap.
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i knew nintendo was evil :P...
i wonder if we even need to short the sl1 to flash it...
i mean has anyone tried to flash it with out touching the sl1 yet?
lol...
that would be super evil if they made it a turn off switch and you don't even have to bypass it to flash it :|
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does no one know that v7 now supports lite....?

and seems like this build of v7 is a lot safer to flash for some reason

Mr. Picklesworth wrote:

Is there a particular position to put the metal object in SL1 that will cause the shutdown?

I think it's something on the left side of the hole SL1 can be accessed from (this is with the DS is turned over and you are looking right at the spot).
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Looks like someone figured out why the new DSLites are shutting off. A fuse was blown, after repairing the fuse and soldering SL1 directly, he got DSLite flashed and working again.

Image on this page.
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Sooo should people not even buy a ds lite because it is it to hard to flash it???. How do you fix a fuse and solder the SL1 circuite is it ezay??????. Dous this problem with the fuse blowing and the system shutting off apply to all ds lites old ds lites or new ds lites or is it just somting wird and its random in some defective units?. Maybe the fuse onley blows in sertain colors of nintendo ds lites and not in others like for example white ds's have a defective fuse and blues dont or somthin like that??. Should we wait to buy a ds lite untill nintendo fix's the probem or should we import them now i dunno im so confused this is scaring me )-: and one more thing is there a method using the flashmes restore feature to succesfully flash ds lites that have the fuse problem? like by keep reseting the flashme proccess using the flashme restore and letting it slowly climb to 100% for a sucessfull flash. If not is there any other way to flash it without the ds turning off maybe bypassing the fuse or somthing durring start up i dunno. plz reply i wanna here what you prosfeshiols think. X-D
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holy crap....fartz, pass your lagunage through a intergalaxic translator please...

Last edited by adrian783 on Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:31 pm; edited 1 time in total

Not everybody was born in anglophonic Canada, the United States, Great Britain, New Zealand, or Australia, so I'll be kind and translate:

fartz wrote:

So, should people not even buy a DS lite because it is too hard to flash it? How do you fix a fuse and solder the SL1 circuit; is it easy? Does this problem with the fuse blowing and the system shutting off apply to all DS lites, old DS lites, or new DS lites, or is it just something weird and its random in some defective units? Maybe the fuse only blows in certain colors of Nintendo DS lites and not in others like for example white DS's have a defective fuse and blues don't or something like that; is that possible? Should we wait to buy a DS lite untill Nintendo fixes the problem or should we import them now? I don't know; I'm so confused this is scaring me :-(

And one more thing: Is there a method using the FlashMe's restore feature to succesfully flash DS lites that have the fuse problem? like by keep reseting the flashme proccess using the FlashMe restore and letting it slowly climb to 100% for a sucessful flash. If not, is there any other way to flash it without the ds turning off maybe bypassing the fuse or something during start up? I dunno. Please reply; I want to hear what you professionals think. X-D

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Thanks for making me feel like a retard and not awnsering any of my quistions. :-p
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I was trying to help other people answer your questions, but I was also trying to 1. not double-post and 2. give other, more experienced DS users a chance to answer first. I apologize if you took it the wrong way.

fartz wrote:

Should we wait to buy a DS lite untill Nintendo fixes the problem or should we import them now?

If there is a "problem", Nintendo isn't going to "fix" it because the "problem" makes it harder for wanton copyright infringers to get their warez running.

Quote:

Is there a method using the FlashMe's restore feature to succesfully flash DS lites that have the fuse problem? like by keep reseting the flashme proccess using the FlashMe restore and letting it slowly climb to 100% for a sucessful flash.

Only if FlashMe passes 5% or so.

Quote:

If not, is there any other way to flash it without the ds turning off maybe bypassing the fuse or something during start up?

It may not be a fuse but a breaker that resets itself whenever you turn the power back on. In that case, practice bridging SL1 and not bridging anything else using DesktopMan's Tetris instead of FlashMe. If you can get it to reliably stay on, then you'll have a better chance of getting FlashMe past 5%, where the failsafe (A+B+Select+Start+power on) begins to work.
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Thanks tepples that cleard things up. I still wanna know y some ds lites shut off when SL1 is breached and y some dont and also how to fix this problem. Soldering the SL1 and fixing the fuse seems a little hard but if its the onley way then it must be done. Can some one plz explain how to solder the SL1 circuit and fix the fuse/breaker on the ds lite thanks,
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waruwaru wrote:

Looks like someone figured out why the new DSLites are shutting off. A fuse was blown, after repairing the fuse and soldering SL1 directly, he got DSLite flashed and working again.

Image on this page.

Is it possible for a fuse like that to partially blow (having a bad connection maybe)? I'm just wondering if something like that could cause the problem with the top screen I am (occasionally) having.
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adrian783 wrote:

holy crap....fartz, pass your lagunage through a intergalaxic translator please...

*mashes the keyboard and hits Enter*

Quote:

"SHNRil.y" is spelled correctly.

O_o

HyperHacker wrote:

adrian783 wrote:

holy crap....fartz, pass your lagunage through a intergalaxic translator please...

*mashes the keyboard and hits Enter*

Quote:

"SHNRil.y" is spelled correctly.

O_o

i got an anwser after thinking about it :P...
it turns out the spell checker checks for intials,
IE: international insititute for dead people = I.I.D.P.

ok, now don't think its the server's fault :D
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The 9th Sage wrote:

Is it possible for a fuse like that to partially blow (having a bad connection maybe)? I'm just wondering if something like that could cause the problem with the top screen I am (occasionally) having.

To me, that sounds more like a bad wire/poor connection somewhere...
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I see this as a manafacturing problem seeing how this problem dousent apply to all ds lites. Hmmmm it makes me wonder could have nintendo planed this????

Hey can some one Email nintendo mentioning the problem with the ds lite turning off during flashme and ask them if this is happening in the intensions of stoping pirating or is it just a glitch in the ds's hardware. See what they say and post it on this thread
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waruwaru wrote:

To me, that sounds more like a bad wire/poor connection somewhere...

I figured probably...I'm suspecting it had the problem before flashing anyway, since it does it so randomly (I can't seem to cause it happen, but when it is happening I can fix it sometimes, strangely when I press on the volume control slightly).

So maddening...I have this beautiful DS Lite yet don't want to use it as the One Screen randomly goes nuts. >_< Especially since sometimes I can use it for an hour or more, or leave it on for a long time and it will never do it, not even once, then other times it won't stop doing it.
_________________
Now with 20% More Old Man from Zelda 1 than ever before!

It's too bad you imported it; otherwise you could stealth-flash it and then take it in for warranty repair.
_________________
-- Where is he?
-- Who?
-- You know, the human.
-- I think he moved to Tilwick.

I just took the battery cover off my DS lite and wiggled something metal in the SL1 hole while a commercial game cart was running. Maximum backlight, AC power connected, nothing in GBA slot. It didn't turn off, and the game carried on fine. Does this mean it's probably safe to use FlashMe, since pandapanda had his DS turn off just by wiggling a metal object in the hole?

I don't fancy risking my shiny new lite if I'm going to destroy it in the process.

Personally, I don't think this is an attempt to stop piracy by Nintendo, as they have made SL1 much easier to get to (the hole isn't as deep), and not covered it with a sticker like on the original DS. They could easily have made it much harder to bridge the contact.

agentq wrote:

I don't think this is an attempt to stop piracy by Nintendo, as they have made SL1 much easier to get to (the hole isn't as deep), and not covered it with a sticker like on the original DS.

It's called "baiting".
_________________
-- Where is he?
-- Who?
-- You know, the human.
-- I think he moved to Tilwick.

Lol tepples has a point X-P but still i wish some one could confirm if this is happening randomly to ds lites or is it all new ds lites that have this problem and if so nintendo must have planed this. Hey agentg where did you order your ds lite and when did you receive it also what collor is it?. This could help confirm if what i just said is true or not.

Agent G you gotta not just stick the metal thing into the hole where the SL1 circuit is you aculey got to touch the SL1 circuit and apply presure to it with the metal thing your using to see if you have the problem or not if it dousent turn off when your apply pressure to the SL1 circuit then it should be 100% safe to flash. ^_^ also note Flashme V7 suports flashme now so you dont need the beta
_________________
I go to pet store and fart on puppys and kittys ^_^

tepples wrote:

It's too bad you imported it; otherwise you could stealth-flash it and then take it in for warranty repair.

Haha, first and last time I import a system, I can tell you that. :)
_________________
Now with 20% More Old Man from Zelda 1 than ever before!

Aculey you are in luck nintendo is the coolest when it comes to waranty. First of all nintendo has no Warnty realey. They will replace any broken nintendo system that they curently sell. All you gotta do is call nintendo on the phone and tell them your system is broken and isent turning on or somthing about it not working. Then they ask you your credit card number and your house address and your email: optional then thats it. after that they send a new nintendo ds in a box to your house. then you have to send them the broken one in the box the new one came in back to nintendo or they charge your credit card . Its compleatly free to replace a ds system tho^_^ ive done this 3 times and my first ds was imported so you shouldent have a problem with your lite. the onley thing you gotta do now tho is wait till they start making them in amarica or where ever you live untill you ask for a repacement. note" i lied to them when i called then requesting a replacment ds. I told them the system refused to turn on but the onley real problem with it was realy the touch screen was scratched up. The system worked fine tho but they still replaced it and never called me or emaild me back asking what was realey rong with it after i lied. I know for a fact they wont replace it if you tell them flashme isent working on it so just tell them its broken and wont turn on or theres a dead pixl or somthin even if its not broken and they will replace it free of charge even if its imported. oooo yea if you dont like lieing you can always just break the 2 battary prongs in the back this will break the system. it will make it not able to work any more i did that the secont time i had to get a replacement and it worked like a charm they sent me a free ds ^_^ and i just sent the broken one back. if any one is wondering for the third time my ds just blow a fuse but still after 2 replacements they still replaced my ds for the 3erd time. Any way you should have no problem you the number is on Nintendo.com
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I go to pet store and fart on puppys and kittys ^_^

fartz wrote:

Any way you should have no problem you the number is on Nintendo.com

O_O

lol Anyway, yeah, they are pretty cool about replacing stuff. I didn't know they would take import stuff though (of course, once it is released in the US). I would probably have to find a way to break it further as I FlasheMe'd it, but not with the stealth version, and I kinda can't get the battery cover off again to reflash it to either the stock firmware or FlashMe Stealth. :P Which is just making me even more annoyed at my messed up DS Lite. I rather wish I could just get the battery cover off, then I wouldn't have to do anything shady to send it back to them.
_________________
Now with 20% More Old Man from Zelda 1 than ever before!

Well if the process works like Fartz described it, they wouldn't know that you had flashme'd your DS until after you got a new replacement one already. Waiting around until they decide to release the DS Lite in the US could take a while though. =[

I have herd ds lite will onley be released in the collor white in amarica for the time being. Dont send your ds lite in for a replacement untill the collor you have comes out in amarica. After that there should be no probem in getting a replacement unless they change ther replacement policey by then witch i doubt because evey one loves it.
_________________
I go to pet store and fart on puppys and kittys ^_^

I thought I'd have a go at using FlashMe V7 on my Lite. So I booted it up, and then while still at the title screen before starting the flash I bridged SL1 and the lite turned off. I did this a few times and the DS still works though.

I didn't go through with it in the end because it seemed too likely that I'd brick my DS.

So is there any more information on this issue and what causes it? Looking at the hole, it looks unlikely that I'd be bridging other contacts other than SL1 when I'm doing this.

Just an idea: What happens if the SL1 is already shorted when you turn the power on?

It could very well simply be a batch of out of/close to tolerance fuses that are close enough to spec to work in QA testing but when flashing the firmware from the DS side overload and break (like a breaker, not like a piece of glass).

I havent looked closely at the board on these, are there any other PCB traces between or really near to the SL1 contacts that with a tiny scratch could be shorted to?

That said, could flashme not be modified to shut down/low power all hardware that draws power other than what is essential to give a status display and actually flash the firmware? (I am betting it already does this though - so its back to OOT fuses imho)

Just a thought: When I run flashme from my supercard, before I press xbxb I can take out the supercard and whatever is in the NDS slot and it still runs fine...

cory1492 wrote:

It could very well simply be a batch of out of/close to tolerance fuses that are close enough to spec to work in QA testing but when flashing the firmware from the DS side overload and break (like a breaker, not like a piece of glass).

If that were the case, updating firmware settings should also blow the fuse.
_________________
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http://dldi.drunkencoders.com

They blow when you short SL1, regardless of whether any firmware access is being made (from what I've heard), so it's probably not flashing that causes problems. Nintendo probably didn't test the fuses to see if shorting SL1 would do anything, since normally you don't need to. It's possible that the short makes it draw more power or something like that (though I imagine in that case, turning off the backlight would help).

So what exactly would be the symptoms of a blown fuse? Does the power light come on when turning on the unit? Is it really a fuse or just a breaker that resets itself and is circumvented by a soldering connection in the cases where people did that?
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

Quote:

Or if the state of SL1 changes while power is on, power turns off.

Quote:

When I tried to flash it, it stalled at 0% so I shorted the SL1. The DS then turned itself off. Luckily, I was able to use the failsafe to boot back into GBA mode and try re-flashing it. It did the same thing when I shorted the SL1. The third time, I shorted SL1 before even turning the unit on and it flashed no problems.

I've been reading up on flashing ds lites a lot lately and i found these two quotes on different sites...so does this have to do with anything with nds lites shutting off?

Bloody Hell, I'm really glad I found this forum! Didn't realise that flashing the Lite was so risky. I've been holding off on getting a DS until the Lite is launched here in the UK...now I'm not so sure it's worth it. Got my M3 and Nintendo USB Wifi stick thing ordered and all. Perhaps a smaller case and back-light settings just aren't worth the risk. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for this thread, I'll be following it with much interest. Hopefully this issue will be resolved before long.

After bricking my lite and bringing it right back from the dead I can honestly say I'm not afraid of tinkering with electronics any more.

I can't say for sure if this will work for everyone, but I revived it from a bricked state by putting in my slim SD (not mini) M3 reader in without the passkey, with JUST the flashing software (no other files but the flashing rom) in the SD card, then turning it on with A+B+start+select.

My Lite blacked out after 1% the first time, blacked out again at 2%, then flashed all the way. I think the "accidentally touching something you shouldn't" is the best theory, as both of the first two times I flashed it i was really poking around randomly inside the thing. The third time I paid extra attention to how i was touching the jumper inside, and it worked ok.

If any former brickers would please test this out to see if it's a sure fire way, I'm sure it would help a lot.

FragMagnet wrote:

After bricking my lite and bringing it right back from the dead I can honestly say I'm not afraid of tinkering with electronics any more.

I can't say for sure if this will work for everyone, but I revived it from a bricked state by putting in my slim SD (not mini) M3 reader in without the passkey, with JUST the flashing software (no other files but the flashing rom) in the SD card, then turning it on with A+B+start+select.

My Lite blacked out after 1% the first time, blacked out again at 2%, then flashed all the way. I think the "accidentally touching something you shouldn't" is the best theory, as both of the first two times I flashed it i was really poking around randomly inside the thing. The third time I paid extra attention to how i was touching the jumper inside, and it worked ok.

If any former brickers would please test this out to see if it's a sure fire way, I'm sure it would help a lot.

Also, it is possible to switch firmware chips.

So if you brick one, put the firmware chip of a working DS Lite into your bricked one, switch it on, run the FlashMe installer.

While the program is waiting for you to press XBXB, switch back to your bricked firmware chip.

Continue the installation.

BOOM!!! Two working DS Lites.
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

nexxyz wrote:

Also, it is possible to switch firmware chips.

Really? Are they socketed? I can't tell from the pictures on the FCC site.
_________________
-- Where is he?
-- Who?
-- You know, the human.
-- I think he moved to Tilwick.

nexxyz wrote:

Also, it is possible to switch firmware chips.

So if you brick one, put the firmware chip of a working DS Lite into your bricked one, switch it on, run the FlashMe installer.

While the program is waiting for you to press XBXB, switch back to your bricked firmware chip.

Continue the installation.

BOOM!!! Two working DS Lites.

Heheh - good luck with finding that second Lite :P

tepples wrote:

nexxyz wrote:

Also, it is possible to switch firmware chips.

Really? Are they socketed? I can't tell from the pictures on the FCC site.

I doubt it. You'd have to desolder them and put sockets in yourself, and hope it fits back in that way.

HyperHacker wrote:

tepples wrote:

nexxyz wrote:

Also, it is possible to switch firmware chips.

Really? Are they socketed? I can't tell from the pictures on the FCC site.

I doubt it. You'd have to desolder them and put sockets in yourself, and hope it fits back in that way.

My dear people...

I wrote that because that is what I did. And nothing else. The chips are socketed.

I was unlucky enough to import a 3rd wave Lite (navy), so when I tried to Flashme it did the famous "turn off at 1%" trick. When turning it on, all I would get would be the power light. No rescue method worked.

So I ordered a new one.

Then I read in the SuperCard forums, that romman posted that you could switch the BIOS chips. Disbelief. First confirmations came in.

I opened my DSL, indeed, in the upper left quarter of the board there's a socketed chip. Just socketed and sticked to the floor with sticky foam and connected via a easily disconnectable cable. I practiced plugging and unplugging it.

My second DS Lite (white) came in. Excitement and fear. Open that one up, too. Unplug the bios. Put it into the broken DSL. Attach the battery via sticky tape. Shivers. Turn it on. WOW!!!

Ok, SuperPass procedure, start the firmware installer. Unplug the BIOS, put in the broken one. WOW!!! Still displaying something.

Enter XBXB...WOW!!! Working!!! Find something to short....tin foil...nope....screwdriver....nope....coat hanger...nope. Tweezers finally worked. 100%. Great!!! Put together the two DSLs..

Happiness!!
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

"SocketMe"? :) I wonder if somebody is going to start providing pre-flashed firmware chips now.
_________________
DSLua - a scripting language for your DS!

waruwaru wrote:

"SocketMe"? :) I wonder if somebody is going to start providing pre-flashed firmware chips now.

Hmm...if you already have some way to get your games onto the DS (Supercard, Flashcarts) then why would you bother buying a chip, opening your DS up and changing the firmware chip?

You could just open it up and short the contacts safely that way, since the metal thingy is not in the way any more.

But for people who bricked their DSL and do not want to endanger a second one, it would provide a comfortable solution...
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

waruwaru wrote:

"SocketMe"? :)

It'd be called "PPFlash Lite".

waruwaru wrote:

I wonder if somebody is going to start providing pre-flashed firmware chips now.

FlashMe is a derivative work of the official firmware, and selling copies on firmware chips is likely an infringement of Nintendo's copyright. Xbox modchips are sold with the Cromwell BIOS, which is free software; the DS counterpart would be FWNITRO.

nexxyz wrote:

Hmm...if you already have some way to get your games onto the DS (Supercard, Flashcarts) then why would you bother buying a chip, opening your DS up and changing the firmware chip?

For GBAMP v2 compatibility perhaps?
_________________
-- Where is he?
-- Who?
-- You know, the human.
-- I think he moved to Tilwick.

nexxyz wrote:

Hmm...if you already have some way to get your games onto the DS (Supercard, Flashcarts) then why would you bother buying a chip, opening your DS up and changing the firmware chip?

For GBAMP v2 compatibility perhaps?[/quote]

Sorry, no idea about that ;)
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

Wait you guys! So you're saying that the only way to flash a dslite from now on is going to result with you opening up your ds and doing stuff with it??!

If fuse blows while installing flashme then you will need to take it apart or exchange it. If the fuse is good but it shuts off during flashme install, as long as the fail safe was written, you will be able to recover without opening your DS lite.
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GTAMP.com/DS

Opening it up is just one method. Probably safest if you know what you're doing and are particularly careful.

Digeman wrote:

Wait you guys! So you're saying that the only way to flash a dslite from now on is going to result with you opening up your ds and doing stuff with it??!

Nope, I was just saying that's how I am going to do it next time, if I ever have to do it again. You can still do it the normal way, just be very careful while doing so.
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

Or you could bridge the fuse before flashing to prevent it breaking.
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Back.

vb_master wrote:

Or you could bridge the fuse before flashing to prevent it breaking.

Well, that would require opening it + soldering. Just opening it is the easier way, I guess, since once you got that thing open, it is really easy to short.
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

Okey...so can anyone make a guide on how to open it and solder for us newbs that have no clue about what to do?? xD

Digeman wrote:

Okey...so can anyone make a guide on how to open it and solder for us newbs that have no clue about what to do?? xD

Why do you guys want to solder? You can just open your DS up, short the S1 with something made of metal. Just beware those screws below the rubber feet. I wouldn't solder the fuse in case it's there for a reason and I would not solder the S1 since as far as my belief goes it allows any malware to access the critical areas of your firmware as well, not sure about that, though. But if FlashMe can use that bridge, then so can anyone else, I guess...
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

After reading this entire thread, I'm going to solder my SL1 connections before I turn on the DS lite and then flash it. Then I'll remove the solder. Seems like the safest way.

The blown fuse theory doesn't make sense to me. If the fuse really blows (lol) then why did those units who were not in the middle of a flash operation turn back on after the SL1 test?

Quote:

I thought I'd have a go at using FlashMe V7 on my Lite. So I booted it up, and then while still at the title screen before starting the flash I bridged SL1 and the lite turned off. I did this a few times and the DS still works though.

So, I'll solder mine and flash it. Wish me luck. I still have to wait for the PassCard and M3 adapter.

I'll post my results.[/quote]
_________________
2 x Enamel Blue DS lites V5, V7 FW whatever
2 x EZ4 lite microSD adapters
Both are FlashMe'd

nexxyz wrote:

My dear people...

I wrote that because that is what I did. And nothing else. The chips are socketed.

Are they also socketed in the original DS's?

philip wrote:

nexxyz wrote:

My dear people...

I wrote that because that is what I did. And nothing else. The chips are socketed.

Are they also socketed in the original DS's?

My chips wern't socketed!
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Back.

Guys, i might be on to something about fixing bricked lites. The method I used to fix my bricked Lite has been tried by another person who had the same problem (i.e: the lite turning off after 1% of flashing) and he further confirmed its plausibility. If anyone has bricked their lites please try this out and let us know if it works!

Basically, all you need to do is get hold of an M3, first and foremost.

NB: I used the smaller SD version - not mini - it shouldn't make any difference but just to be on the safe side, that proved successful in my case. One thing is certain though - it does NOT work with the F2A Ultra! (Supercard or any others are yet untested)

Format the memory card and place JUST the flashing tool you used into it. Insert the M3 WITHOUT THE PASSKEY, and boot up while pressing A+B+Start+Select. it should automatically load the flashing tool and allow you to try again. I did this multiple times on the same flashing, so don't worry about turning it off again accidentally.

Please follow the instructions to the letter, as it's exactly what I did to fix mine. If people can try to further prove or disprove this method's plausibility it would do us all a favour!

FragMagnet wrote:

After bricking my lite and bringing it right back from the dead I can honestly say I'm not afraid of tinkering with electronics any more.

I can't say for sure if this will work for everyone, but I revived it from a bricked state by putting in my slim SD (not mini) M3 reader in without the passkey, with JUST the flashing software (no other files but the flashing rom) in the SD card, then turning it on with A+B+start+select.

My Lite blacked out after 1% the first time, blacked out again at 2%, then flashed all the way. I think the "accidentally touching something you shouldn't" is the best theory, as both of the first two times I flashed it i was really poking around randomly inside the thing. The third time I paid extra attention to how i was touching the jumper inside, and it worked ok.

If any former brickers would please test this out to see if it's a sure fire way, I'm sure it would help a lot.

Confirmed (and thanks for the advice!). I added flashme.nds (V7) as the only file on my M3 (mini SD version) and booted while holding A, B, Select and Start. Flashme resumed and I managed to complete the firmware installation - though not before resetting it two more times!

Thanks again, Mr. FragMagnet.

Holy hell yeah! :D

This is indeed very good news! Keep them coming guys, I want to know for sure if I can flash all my friends' lites safely without having to buy them new ones if i mess up. XD

Do we have a winner? \?D/

The method of trying to flash it again and again until it succeeds is still very risky, because if the flashme recovery code (the code that is triggered by A+B+START+SELECT and causes the DS to directly boot from the GBA slot) is not written before your DS turns off unexpectedly, you have a brick. Fortunately, it is the first thing that is written to the firmware, so it still works even if only the first few kb were written, but if your DS turns off before the recovery code is written, you won't be able to rescue your DS lite again!

I too have a DS Lite, but I won't try to flash it until the cause of the turning-off thing is 100% isolated and there is a secure workaround method. And I wouldn't recommmend trying to flash the Lite at all. At least at the moment.[/u]

The_DDub wrote:

The blown fuse theory doesn't make sense to me. If the fuse really blows (lol) then why did those units who were not in the middle of a flash operation turn back on after the SL1 test?

They don't always blow, it's just possible.
_________________
I'm a PSP hacker now, but I still <3 DS.

So far we've seen that the problem with flashing the lite is that it turns off when SL1 is shorted. The 1% is practically always loaded into it before it can be turned off seeing how you have to short SL1 before it can turn off. This is my theory, however I could be wrong, which is why I encourage all those who have failed a flash to try it out to see if there are any exceptions.

Another thing worth mentioning is that I flashed my Lite's firmware a second time to enable the bootscreen again (as opposed to directly going to the game selection menu) - and shorting SL1 did nothing to it. I think this shows that the cause of these Lites turning off is likely more software than hardware based. Again, it's just a theory.

Either way, those who failed to flash their DS Lites without access to another Lite they can open (to use the chip switching method to fix it) don't have much alternative right now, I believe.

I'm not sure if I'm interpreting this correctly (I haven't formally studied Japanese yet so this is based on interpretations of Babelfish and Google translations), but it seems like, according to this Japanese blog that blackouts are caused by accidentally connecting somehow with a piece of metal on the part of the case near SL1. Perhaps this is why people who use something insulated (screwdriver with tape around it, rubber-covered paper clip with ends exposed, etc) seem to have a much higher success rate than everyone else. I'm not sure anyone has the Japanese skills to confirm this or the will to somehow test it, but it is a theory.

Edit: Well, after rereading that it doesn't seem to make much sense. Basically, what I gathered from that Japanese site is that there is a piece of metal attached to the DSL case directly above where SL1 is on the board. Accidentally connecting with that and SL1 (and/or the component next to it? I'm not sure) is what causes a shutdown, according to that site.

Hopefully we can get this all figured out in the next two weeks before we all have our own cute white bricks.

therpham wrote:

Edit: Well, after rereading that it doesn't seem to make much sense. Basically, what I gathered from that Japanese site is that there is a piece of metal attached to the DSL case directly above where SL1 is on the board. Accidentally connecting with that and SL1 (and/or the component next to it? I'm not sure) is what causes a shutdown, according to that site.

Hopefully we can get this all figured out in the next two weeks before we all have our own cute white bricks.

That seems to support my own personal experience with flashing a DS Lite...something on the edge of the hole SL1 can be accessed from, off to one side, that can be shorted with SL1 to cause a shutdown.
_________________
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therpham wrote:

I'm not sure if I'm interpreting this correctly (I haven't formally studied Japanese yet so this is based on interpretations of Babelfish and Google translations), but it seems like, according to this Japanese blog that blackouts are caused by accidentally connecting somehow with a piece of metal on the part of the case near SL1. Perhaps this is why people who use something insulated (screwdriver with tape around it, rubber-covered paper clip with ends exposed, etc) seem to have a much higher success rate than everyone else. I'm not sure anyone has the Japanese skills to confirm this or the will to somehow test it, but it is a theory.

Edit: Well, after rereading that it doesn't seem to make much sense. Basically, what I gathered from that Japanese site is that there is a piece of metal attached to the DSL case directly above where SL1 is on the board. Accidentally connecting with that and SL1 (and/or the component next to it? I'm not sure) is what causes a shutdown, according to that site.

Hopefully we can get this all figured out in the next two weeks before we all have our own cute white bricks.

LOOK AT THIS IMAGE BELOW:

http://proxy.f3.ymdb.yahoofs.jp/users/43f42182_c54/bc/b525/__sr_/1b9c.jpg?bc9p8tEBLPpCrP6y

I can read japanese.... here's the important part of these series of articles.

following the images... when the right of SL1 and the F1-1 make contact a blackout will occur . Apparently the same thing will happen if the metalic thing making the short in the SL1 touches that metallic thing under the screw (the golden one).

Seems that this metallic thing is connected with the VR, so basically if you short the SL1 with that thing, the VR will be short too.

The author of these articles says that is the reason why (as supposedly has been proven MANY times by some people he mentions) using the erased method is the only method proven to work 100% of the times without any risk of blackouts.

WOOOHOOOO!!! I think we found a way of safely flashing the DS Lite!!!! Now I'm waiting patiently for my DS Lite to arrive and do this carefully :) At least now we know why the blackout occurs and people can be careful about it.

BTW... how the hell do I attach an image to my post??

I don't get it...what is the erased method?? Can you share it with us?

Digeman wrote:

I don't get it...what is the erased method?? Can you share it with us?

From what I understand it is putting an erased around the metal thing you're going to use to short the SL1, leaving only the tip that makes the contact open. This is done to prevent a short with the VR.

Mahler wrote:

Digeman wrote:

I don't get it...what is the erased method?? Can you share it with us?

From what I understand it is putting an erased around the metal thing you're going to use to short the SL1, leaving only the tip that makes the contact open. This is done to prevent a short with the VR.

Oh, you're talking about non-conducting material...I see. Yes, that has worked for some. The flat end of a coat-hanger-wire wrapped in paper has worked for some, toothpick in foil with paper around it has worked for others.
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

Would Scotch? cellophane tape around a screwdriver or metal paperclip provide enough insulation?
_________________
-- Where is he?
-- Who?
-- You know, the human.
-- I think he moved to Tilwick.

It did prevent the DSL from turning off, yes, although I ended up opening the DSL up and shorting it that way, since my small screwdrivers didn't seem to provide suffincient conduction to short it.
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

I took the back cover off my ds lite to solder SL1. I don't recall any components being anywhere NEAR the SL1 pads, so you have to really move the item that is used to short SL1 to shut off the DS. Either way, I have a nice solder bridge that shorts the contacts so hopefully mine won't shut off.

Odd thing happened after I soldered SL1. I had to redo my firmware stuff, Time, color, b-day, nick but NOT the language, so language is held in BIOS and all the other is in firmware. I guess.
_________________
2 x Enamel Blue DS lites V5, V7 FW whatever
2 x EZ4 lite microSD adapters
Both are FlashMe'd

2 questions for anyone who has saved a bricked DS Lite:

1. When you boot the DS while holding A+B+Start+Select, do you have to press X-B-X-B to get flashme started again? Or do you just go directly to shorting SL1 again?

2. If the screens are black, how do you know when it has reached 100% Or do the screens come back on when you short SL1?

Thanks :)

tepples wrote:

Would Scotch? cellophane tape around a screwdriver or metal paperclip provide enough insulation?

I also want to know if this would suffice

The_DDub wrote:

I took the back cover off my ds lite to solder SL1. I don't recall any components being anywhere NEAR the SL1 pads

That might because the metal is on the casing, not the board. If you look at the "upper" (= removable) part of the cover, you'll see the metal around the GBA slot there. That's what makes the DSL turn off, as far as I've tested it. Or it might be because you either gave a 1st or 2nd wave unit.

bug wrote:

2 questions for anyone who has saved a bricked DS Lite:

1. When you boot the DS while holding A+B+Start+Select, do you have to press X-B-X-B to get flashme started again? Or do you just go directly to shorting SL1 again?

2. If the screens are black, how do you know when it has reached 100% Or do the screens come back on when you short SL1?

Thanks :)

Please take a look at this thread:
http://forum.gbadev.org/viewtopic.php?t=9693

Mahler wrote:

tepples wrote:

Would Scotch? cellophane tape around a screwdriver or metal paperclip provide enough insulation?

I also want to know if this would suffice

I answered that a few posts above.
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

The_DDub wrote:

Odd thing happened after I soldered SL1. I had to redo my firmware stuff, Time, color, b-day, nick but NOT the language, so language is held in BIOS and all the other is in firmware. I guess.

Actually, everything is held in the firmware. The BIOS is not writable. The reason you had to reenter everything but the language is due to the way the firmware works. The RTC (real time clock) in the DS is powered by the battery. When you took out the battery to open your DS, the RTC lost the time. Also, there is a bit in the RTC's memory that got cleared. That tells the DS that the RTC time will no longer be correct, so the firmware goes through the whole initialisation again. It skips the language because of the way the init code is written.

Also, rather than soldering SL1, people may want to use a conductive-ink pen instead. These should be available at electronics stores.
_________________
http://chishm.drunkencoders.com
http://dldi.drunkencoders.com

nexxyz wrote:

The_DDub wrote:

I took the back cover off my ds lite to solder SL1. I don't recall any components being anywhere NEAR the SL1 pads

That might because the metal is on the casing, not the board. If you look at the "upper" (= removable) part of the cover, you'll see the metal around the GBA slot there. That's what makes the DSL turn off, as far as I've tested it. Or it might be because you either gave a 1st or 2nd wave unit.

Hmm, didn't think about that. I'll look next time I open it to remove the solder bridge. I think the entire back casing is all plastic though.

chishm wrote:

The_DDub wrote:

Odd thing happened after I soldered SL1. I had to redo my firmware stuff, Time, color, b-day, nick but NOT the language, so language is held in BIOS and all the other is in firmware. I guess.

Actually, everything is held in the firmware. The BIOS is not writable. The reason you had to reenter everything but the language is due to the way the firmware works. The RTC (real time clock) in the DS is powered by the battery. When you took out the battery to open your DS, the RTC lost the time. Also, there is a bit in the RTC's memory that got cleared. That tells the DS that the RTC time will no longer be correct, so the firmware goes through the whole initialisation again. It skips the language because of the way the init code is written.

Also, rather than soldering SL1, people may want to use a conductive-ink pen instead. These should be available at electronics stores.

Makes sense. So the BIOS does not run the RTC, it's a firmware app? Weird.
_________________
2 x Enamel Blue DS lites V5, V7 FW whatever
2 x EZ4 lite microSD adapters
Both are FlashMe'd

The_DDub wrote:

Hmm, didn't think about that. I'll look next time I open it to remove the solder bridge. I think the entire back casing is all plastic though.

Nope, if you look at the GBA slot, you'll see that the inner wall is made of metal...and it is attached to the removeable part of the outer casing.
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

would anyone be interested in a ds lite sl1 tool? made of plastic and metal, i was talking to my dad about it and he seems interested. there may be a much simpler way to do it tho.

If you can become a reseller of MAX Media Launcher and GBA Movie Player or MAX Media Dock, then you might be able to make and sell SL1 tools in a bundle.
_________________
-- Where is he?
-- Who?
-- You know, the human.
-- I think he moved to Tilwick.

lol. well im sure somebody else will come up with a solution.

Ok, after taking apart 2 ds lites and solder bridiging sl1, I think I see why pple are bricking their lites. If you look at the bottom casing of the lite, you will see a metal strip that goes across the GBA slot. The strip is held down by 2 screws and the screw mount is next to the plastic hole for the SL1 connection. Also, this strip looks like it grounds as there is a metal pad on it that makes contact with the pcb inside the unit. The screw mount for this metal strip comes VERY close to the SL1 opening on the plastic case. So, when people are trying to make that magical sl1 bridge for flashing and moving their bridging tool around, I believe they contact the grounding strip and the SL1 contact therefore erasing their ROM entirely. I took pics, but have no where to host them.
_________________
2 x Enamel Blue DS lites V5, V7 FW whatever
2 x EZ4 lite microSD adapters
Both are FlashMe'd

Host them on http://imageshack.us , it's hard to understand what you mean without images.

The_DDub wrote:

Ok, after taking apart 2 ds lites and solder bridiging sl1, I think I see why pple are bricking their lites. If you look at the bottom casing of the lite, you will see a metal strip that goes across the GBA slot. The strip is held down by 2 screws and the screw mount is next to the plastic hole for the SL1 connection. Also, this strip looks like it grounds as there is a metal pad on it that makes contact with the pcb inside the unit. The screw mount for this metal strip comes VERY close to the SL1 opening on the plastic case. So, when people are trying to make that magical sl1 bridge for flashing and moving their bridging tool around, I believe they contact the grounding strip and the SL1 contact therefore erasing their ROM entirely. I took pics, but have no where to host them.

Finally someone is agreeing on what I have said all along ;)
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

Thanks bug.

Here is the pic I am talking about:

[Images not permitted - Click here to view it]

The square opening directly to the left of the screw is the SL1 opening.
_________________
2 x Enamel Blue DS lites V5, V7 FW whatever
2 x EZ4 lite microSD adapters
Both are FlashMe'd

So if I tape off whatever I use to reach the SL1 point, touching that screws socket wouldn't be a problem anymore?

Is an option to unscrew and take off that little band entirely while flashing?

Ennead wrote:

So if I tape off whatever I use to reach the SL1 point, touching that screws socket wouldn't be a problem anymore?

Is an option to unscrew and take off that little band entirely while flashing?

Yeah, but if you're already going to open up your DSL you might as well just use some sticky tape to fix your battery and flash it while it's open.
_________________
"It's a fool's prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."

thanks alot for your help guys....
i was reading this yesterday when my battery for the laptop ran out so on my way upstairs i dropped my DSL .... DAMN!
well i had insurance....so iv ordered my new one ^^
+ i get to keep the old one....(the only thing that broke was the touch screen other than that it still works...)
so now i have one i can play with :D

i think im gunna use a flathead with electrical tape around

again...thanks for the advice :D
_________________
GOT ME A DSL THE 19th MAY ^^
DROPPED IT
TOUCH SCREEN BUSTED
GOT NEW OF INSURANCE
NOW I HAVE 1 TO PLAY WITH ^^

gbadev.org forum archive

DS Flash Equipment > Why DS lite may be turning off

#79172 - fartz - Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:28 am

#79175 - vb_master - Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:41 am

#79176 - fartz - Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:45 am

#79179 - tepples - Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:57 am

#79180 - swimgod - Wed Apr 12, 2006 1:16 am

#79183 - fartz - Wed Apr 12, 2006 1:29 am

#79185 - juhees - Wed Apr 12, 2006 1:39 am

#79186 - chishm - Wed Apr 12, 2006 1:40 am

#79187 - tepples - Wed Apr 12, 2006 1:40 am

#79203 - fartz - Wed Apr 12, 2006 3:11 am

#79213 - sneef - Wed Apr 12, 2006 4:33 am

#79223 - josath - Wed Apr 12, 2006 6:36 am

#79228 - Ilomoga - Wed Apr 12, 2006 10:16 am

#79231 - juhees - Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:09 am

#79317 - HyperHacker - Wed Apr 12, 2006 10:16 pm

#79348 - Nushio - Thu Apr 13, 2006 1:48 am

#79358 - caitsith2 - Thu Apr 13, 2006 3:57 am

#79364 - The 9th Sage - Thu Apr 13, 2006 4:36 am

#79393 - juhees - Thu Apr 13, 2006 11:59 am

#79407 - tepples - Thu Apr 13, 2006 12:50 pm

#79457 - Nushio - Thu Apr 13, 2006 8:42 pm

#79459 - swimgod - Thu Apr 13, 2006 8:48 pm

#79472 - JaJa - Thu Apr 13, 2006 10:13 pm

#79529 - vb_master - Fri Apr 14, 2006 3:50 am

#79530 - The 9th Sage - Fri Apr 14, 2006 4:05 am

#79546 - HyperHacker - Fri Apr 14, 2006 6:42 am

#79572 - juhees - Fri Apr 14, 2006 11:47 am

#79668 - adrian783 - Sat Apr 15, 2006 3:21 am

#79669 - tepples - Sat Apr 15, 2006 3:22 am

#79671 - swimgod - Sat Apr 15, 2006 3:29 am

#79672 - adrian783 - Sat Apr 15, 2006 3:30 am

#79674 - tepples - Sat Apr 15, 2006 3:43 am

#79681 - swimgod - Sat Apr 15, 2006 4:04 am

#79725 - tepples - Sat Apr 15, 2006 5:15 pm

#79757 - adrian783 - Sat Apr 15, 2006 9:12 pm

#79770 - tepples - Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:12 pm

#79828 - fartz - Sun Apr 16, 2006 4:27 am

#79833 - swimgod - Sun Apr 16, 2006 5:51 am

#79913 - The 9th Sage - Mon Apr 17, 2006 2:31 am

#79929 - chishm - Mon Apr 17, 2006 6:56 am

#80000 - HyperHacker - Tue Apr 18, 2006 12:57 am

#80027 - The 9th Sage - Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:06 am

#80132 - pandapanda - Wed Apr 19, 2006 2:29 am

#80134 - Sektor - Wed Apr 19, 2006 2:52 am

#80137 - The 9th Sage - Wed Apr 19, 2006 3:57 am

#80139 - Mr. Picklesworth - Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:00 am

#80144 - swimgod - Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:43 am

#80146 - adrian783 - Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:46 am

#80210 - The 9th Sage - Thu Apr 20, 2006 1:13 am

#80228 - waruwaru - Thu Apr 20, 2006 6:47 am

#80230 - fartz - Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:47 am

#80242 - adrian783 - Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:20 pm

#80243 - tepples - Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:31 pm

#80267 - fartz - Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:57 pm

#80268 - tepples - Thu Apr 20, 2006 9:13 pm

#80292 - fartz - Fri Apr 21, 2006 2:29 am

#80299 - The 9th Sage - Fri Apr 21, 2006 3:38 am

#80309 - HyperHacker - Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:59 am

#80311 - swimgod - Fri Apr 21, 2006 5:23 am

#80365 - waruwaru - Fri Apr 21, 2006 7:07 pm

#80409 - fartz - Sat Apr 22, 2006 1:48 am

#80423 - The 9th Sage - Sat Apr 22, 2006 4:21 am

#80424 - tepples - Sat Apr 22, 2006 4:25 am

#80483 - agentq - Sat Apr 22, 2006 6:19 pm

#80492 - tepples - Sat Apr 22, 2006 8:24 pm

#80529 - fartz - Sun Apr 23, 2006 5:59 am

#80629 - The 9th Sage - Mon Apr 24, 2006 4:05 am

#80734 - fartz - Tue Apr 25, 2006 3:19 am

#80839 - The 9th Sage - Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:44 pm

#81459 - teknicz - Sat Apr 29, 2006 7:21 am

#81475 - fartz - Sat Apr 29, 2006 12:04 pm

#81504 - agentq - Sat Apr 29, 2006 4:27 pm

#81584 - melw - Sun Apr 30, 2006 11:12 am

#81592 - cory1492 - Sun Apr 30, 2006 1:38 pm

#81599 - chishm - Sun Apr 30, 2006 2:07 pm

#81970 - HyperHacker - Wed May 03, 2006 3:43 am

#82875 - nexxyz - Wed May 10, 2006 11:30 pm

#83187 - Digeman - Sun May 14, 2006 12:08 am